Art of Tea: You’ve said originally switched to organic production in search of better tasting tea. What is the difference between the taste of organic and conventional [non-organic] tea to you?

Kinezuka: Organic tea has a deeper, richer taste. We often receive tea from other [conventional] farmers, and I am always surprised to taste it because it looks very good, but once we brew it, it is not tasty at all.

Art of Tea: When did you make the switch to organic tea production?

Kinezuka: In 1976. Before then, I had a strong dependency on chemicals.

If we go back to the earliest history of agriculture, we cannot find any time with such a high dependency on chemicals. In the 1960s,Japanese agriculture became highly dependent on chemicals, so the dependency has only a short history of about 50 years. In these 50 years, without people realizing it, there was a huge environmental destruction.

Art of Tea: What kind of environmental destruction?

Kinezuka: When I was little, farmers used a very strong chemical in the rice fields. After they sprayed, they would put up a red flag in the field, and the children were not allowed to play in the river. This is why I never learned to swim.

At the same time, the fish disappeared. If there had been a factory up the stream that killed fish and damaged the environment, it would have been a big social issue, but since it was farming, people did not take the same approach. However, farming is one of the biggest polluters.

Until today, there has been destructive construction that killed a lot of the creatures in the river and nature. We used to have many fireflies, but now we don’t see many. At one point, they almost totally disappeared.

Art of Tea: That’s terrible… What is the role of insects on your organic tea farm today?

Kinezuka: A professor observed two farms in Shizuoka from March to November, when the insects are the most active. He compared our farm to a conventional farm 250 meters away. The insects with wings were evenly spread over the two farms. However, the number of insects without wings was steady on the organic farm and it changed suddenly on the conventional farm. Overall, the average was lower on the organic farm, in part because helpful insects like spiders exist on organic farms. They eat the harmful insects. In addition, there was a much wider variety of types of insects on the organic tea farm.

Check back next week to learn how the diverse ecology of organic farms makes better tea.

Processing Styles

Most Japanese green teas are steamed. However, some (like Houjicha, our roasted-style Kukicha Twig Tea and Kamairicha) are roasted or pan-fired in a manner akin to Chinese green tea processing.

Within the category of steamed green teas, the amount of time the leaves are steamed also influenced the tea’s final flavor, aroma and appearance. For example, Fukamishi (deep-steamed) Sencha like our Zuisha Sencha has a bold green color with a mild aroma and a straightforward flavor, while Asamushi (light-steamed) Sencha has a light golden-green brew, nuanced aroma and complex flavor.

Some teas are steamed so heavily that the leaves begin to fall apart. In some cases, the veins and stems of the leaves are removed and the remainder of the leaf is slowly ground into a fine powder known as Matcha. Some Matcha teas (like our Ceremonial Matcha andMatcha Grade A) are whisked into a frothy, emerald-green brew before consumption. Others (like our Ginger Matcha) can be whisked or they can be blended into hot or iced tea lattes and smoothies.

Unusual variations on Matcha include Tencha (leaves that are steamed to make Matcha, but left un-ground), Kenacha (a lower-grade powdered tea made from un-shaded leaves) and Kokeicha (a powdered green tea that is kneaded with rice starch, extruded, cut into leaf-sized pieces and dried).

Blending

In Japan, some green tea (usually Bancha) is blended with toasted and puffed brown rice to make a nutty, low-caffeine tea called Gen Mai Cha (“brown rice tea”). If Gen Mai Cha is dusted with Matcha, it’s known as “Matcha-iri Genmaicha” or Gen Mai Matcha.

Dragon Crisp - Gen Mai Cha

Here at Art of Tea, we employ artisan-blending techniques on some of our Japanese green teas. Using the naturally fresh, vegetal flavor of steamed Japanese green tea as a base, we draw upon all our senses to create blends like Tropical Green Tea Pineapple, Mango Melange, Japanese Cherry, Holiday Berry Green Tea and Ginger Matcha. We also combine the roasted, deep flavor of Houjicha with cold-pressed vanilla essence and white chocolate to make our decadent, latte-like Houjicha de la Crème. These are certainly not traditional blends, but they have been instrumental in helping an international audience come to love the flavor of Japanese green tea.

Japanese Cherry

Art of Tea’s tea bags were included in the party favor for a soiree for a Los Angeles based Moms group. The Moms loved the tea bags on their night out on town (sans kidlets!). The bags were in a cute little pouch (made by one of the moms) that had the event name on it, providing the host with an easy yet sophisticated way to hand out the little gifts. The women ooh-ed and aah-ed over the aromas that were released when some of them opened their favors, unable to hold off their curiosity.

As the after-event emails trickled in, and the Facebook statuses got updated, the Moms all remarked on how wonderful the tea bags were, how angelic and blissful those few moments of sipping hot tea can be. One Mom said that the Earl Grey Crème was her new favorite, that it was a quick indulgence for her in the morning before the daily routine kicked off.

Art of Tea now offers a Sachet Tea Ceremony Sampler, a beautiful elegant box that holds 2 individually packaged tea sachets.  It makes a wonderful thank-you gift to your guests.

Origins

The main specialty tea-producing regions of Japan are Uji, Shizuoka and Kyushu.

Uji is known for Uji Gyokuro, Uji Matcha and Uji Kabusecha, but there are also some exceptional Uji Sencha teas we’ve found in our travels. Tea from Uji is often called “Ujicha” or “Uji tea.”

Shizuoka is known for its Sencha and, especially, its light, sweet Shincha.

Kyushu tea is generally lower quality than Uji and Shizuoka tea. However, some Kyushu tea farmers are planting new and interesting varietals, and there are many organic tea farms in the region.

Tea Plants

The varietal of tea plant and the parts of the tea plant that are used to make tea also determine how a green tea will look, smell and taste.

Japan’s most common tea varietal is known as Yabukita, or “North of the Bamboo Forest.” Around Uji City, the Kyotowanabe is popular. And, of course, Kyushu is experimenting with new tea varietals. Each has a unique appearance, aroma and flavor when processed.

Many Japanese green teas use two leaves and one bud. However, some traditional Japanese teas are intentionally made of stems for a lower caffeine level and milder flavor. Our Green Kukicha, Kukicha Twig Tea and Houjicha de la Crème are all examples of Japanese twig teas.

Japanese Twig Teas

Shade Growing

Most Japanese green teas are grown in ample sunshine. However, a few are partially shade-grown to mimic the mists of high-elevation Chinese green teas. These teas include Gyokuro and Matcha (which are shade grown for 20 days or more before harvest), as well as Kabusecha (which is shade-grown for about two weeks before harvest).

Harvest Times

Sencha that is harvested in early spring is known as “Shincha” (or “new tea” or “first-flush Sencha”). Summer and fall pluckings of Sencha are often referred to as Bancha, a type of “everyday green tea” that’s commonly served after meals in Japan.

Depending on the region and the weather patterns of the year, Gyokuro (a type of shade-grown green tea) and Matcha (a shade-grown, powdered green tea) may also be plucked slightly later in the spring than Shincha.

More on Japanese Green Teas

In next week’s blog post, we’ll talk about the differences in processing and blending that distinguish Japanese green teas from one another.

The Art of Tea team and I recently wrapped up from a weekend at The World Tea Expo in Las Vegas. Steve taught a three-hour class on tea blending and two of his blends (Passionfruit Jasmine black tea and Petal Pedal rooibos) won awards in the North American Iced Tea Championship. Perhaps it was the combination of desert heat, a weekend brimming with tea, and one of the world’s best wine scenes, but something inspired me to share a few summery, pairing-friendly iced tea recipes with you here on the Art of Tea blog. Brew these iced teas at home or at your tea business… or convince your favorite restaurant to serve them with the pairing suggestions below.

Petal Pedal on Ice

Petal Pedal is an award-winning, caffeine-free rooibos blend. When iced, it has a perfectly balanced, naturally sweet flavor profile that appeals to everyone from tea connoisseurs to kids. Brew iced Petal Pedal with these easy instructions:

1 cup (250 mL) filtered or spring water

2 Tbsp. Petal Pedal

1 cup ice cubes

Instructions:

1) Bring the water to a boil.

2) Brew Petal Pedal for five minutes.

3) Remove the leaves and pour the brew over ice.

4) Serve immediately.

Makes approximately two servings (1.5 cups/350 mL).

For an added treat, pair Petal Pedal on Ice with lamb tagine, dark chocolate French macaroons or lavender-sea salt caramels.

(Almost) Classic Iced Tea

Art of Tea’s award-winning Classic Black makes a fantastic iced tea. Its Nilgiri base produces a fragrant, crisp, clear brew, while its Yunnan golden buds add an alluring, chocolaty depth that’s rare in iced teas. Blended with sugar and lemon, it takes Southern sweet tea to a new level. Brewed with vanilla sugar and orange, it becomes a sophisticated, satiating iced tea unlike any you’ve ever tasted. Here’s how to make our (Almost) Classic Iced Tea:

1 cup (250 mL) filtered or spring water

1 heaping Tbsp. Classic Black

1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed orange juice

1 Tsp. Madagascar vanilla sugar (or coconut palm sugar with a few drops of pure vanilla extract)

1.5 cups ice cubes

1 wedge orange

Instructions:

1) Bring the water to a boil.

2) Brew Classic Black for four minutes.

3) Remove the tealeaves.

4) Stir in the vanilla sugar and orange juice.

5) Pour the mixture over ice.

6) Add the orange wedge and serve immediately.

Makes approximately two servings (2 cups/475 mL).

For an added treat, pair this modified classic with Kansas City-style barbecue, fresh peaches or cardamom-vanilla pudding.

One of things I struggle with is finding time to find balance. It really is a tea paradox because once you make time for tea you realize how much more time you have. When visiting China I am reminded of how expansive this world really is and there is no time to waste on unmindful lethargy. Ok, so we need to chill out some times but chilling out with intention is different than spacing out from overload. Once ones mental bucket is full then it is challenging to empty it. And with media and technology overload it is easy to become well, overloaded. Ideally we can find an hour a day of reconnecting and making the day great however that is not always possible.

So, 10 minutes we can do on a break at home or at work. A great teacher once told me you have to know what you know. Meaning once you know something stick with it don’t trick yourself into not knowing. With tea, knowing how to make great tea starts by finding the right water, using the right storage, selecting the best tea possible and taking a few minutes to prepare your select tea. In only ten minutes a day this time can be spent as a recharge moment to improve the rest of your day.

Start with ten minutes without your phone or computer or any distractions and build from there. Stick with this rhythm and you’ll be surprised at what only ten minutes can do.

Its a challenge to find the tea shrubs in this photo. They are there. The garden isnt as picturesce as most tea plantations that you would see commercially grown but they are there. Its a simple trek for the farmers. A few minute incline to these organic fair trade tea fields and back to processing before the withering takes place.

I hope I don’t offend anyone here with this post. According to my resources deep in the Wuyi Mountains there are plenty of wild tea trees but  no Monkeys that pick tea or for that matter have ever picked tea here.

Oddly enough however there appear to be several species of non human primates in this region which are known to open/pop the top off a bottle of beer. Granted there are pictures and old paintings of the tea partnership between Monks and Monkeys trading food for wild tea leaves that could not be reached by humans, however these primates have no interest in the leaf. They prefer another brew.

So why have the name  Monkey in a tea such as our white monkey picked or golden monkey? Monkey Picked Tea refers to a top tier tea. Typically wild thicker leaves are used for this or rarer more precious leaves and buds.

This checkpoint is to prevent tourists, foreigners and uninvited guests away from the protective reserve. The habitat hosts a variety of  rare herbs and botanicals, rock teas, about 1000 residents and a host of wildlife. Tourists are only allowed in the Summer time and this visit was early harvest season so no tourists are allowed in order to protect the reserve’s natural habitat. Since I was traveling with the estate manager the guard let us through without question. Once through the gate the forest opened up to be a pure magical place. With China having many contrasts of population and other environmental concerns this place was surrounded by mountains peaks far away from city culture. These mountain peaks would shoot up at a 90 degree angle at the sky with waterfalls flowing down the side  wild monkeys, tea shrubs, pine and bamboo forests. This is where our famous organic white tea and some of our organic hand crafted oolongs are produced… You can smell and taste the freshness of this area in the tea.

Special thanks to Mr. Zhan. He has been my driver for first 5 days of the journey through Fujian and has successfully honked at every bicycle, tricycle carrier, pedestrian, car, ox, dog, water buffalo, tuk tuk, corner, bridge, village entrance, alleyway, motorcycle, motorcycle truckish hybrid (not thinking eco here just no other frame of reference) car, stone, rolling ball, bus, truck, mountain bend, river bed and fallen bamboo…keeping us safe from harm and ensuring we get to our destinations safe and on time.